#FtLionAwards 2022 Main of the Year shortlist

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The impressive-looking Alam was part of our big Birmingham Tour 2022. They served us the first of three Sunday Roasts shortlisted for this category. And what meal it was too with the Chicken “Poussin”, the fresh Scottish Salmon, and the free-range Lamb Shank included in this case for review purposes. There really wasn’t much to choose from between them really.

The chicken turned out superbly succulent; the oven-baked salmon managed to retain that tender translucency, while all the while boasting a crispy exterior; and the slowly simmered lamb shank offered the perfect ratio of meat to fattiness, while practically dissolving off the bone. Add to that the whispy soft combination of roast and sweet potatoes, as well as parsnips, honey tomatoes on the vine, and plenty of gravy to boot; and this is worth travelling for.

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5/5 rated Cona steakhouse in Bradford have thus far had a nomination each for a starter and a veggie (both being the same dish). This time they put up an astoundingly good Sunday roast made extraordinary by the Japanese Wagyu Sirloin A1, roast potatoes cooked in wagyu beef fat, seasoned vegetables, smoked cauliflower purée, cavolo nero (a type of kale), green beans, heritage carrots, and, of course, being in Yorkshire, proper Yorkshire pudding. In addition, the pièce de résistance was served two ways: in strip form and sliced.

Now, just look at that towering Yorkshire pudding. The roast potatoes were exquisitely executed, with a crispy-cum-cruncy exterior, and, most importantly, the meaty aroma of the wagyu fat it was cooked in. While you take our word over how wonderful the aforementioned seasonal vegetables were (much needed as a counter-balance), it was that stunning wagyu bone marrow which, when mixed with the buttery-rich gravy, was to die for, if you’d pardon the expression. All in all, absolutely sublime.

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Duck & Noodle in London’s Bayswater don’t just source quality duck from Silver-Hill Farm in Ireland, but they have a meticulous preparatory method too which sees theirs being roasted in a traditional Chinese ‘Bullet Oven’ ensuring that the duck turns out boasting a glossily golden skin while being crisped to perfection. More importantly, it also managed to achieve what every duck afficionado knows is the most important thing, and that’s a moist interior.

In the case of this tender and juicy Peking version, Duck & Noodle’s sets the benchmark for the best executed duck we’ve ever had. And though the tangy hoisin glaze had good consistency, the only shortcoming here was that the pancakes could and should have been warmed through to ensure greater softness. Nevertheless, a fantastic dish and one of the highlights of not just this review, but of the year.

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Again part of our big Birmingham Tour 2022, Fargos on Lady Pool Road surprised us completely by taking the humble doner and presenting us this amazing Nagatron Steak Kebabish. Inspired, of course, by the Pakistani Kebabish, not only was the wok fried strips of lamb fillet and chicken steak of a superior quality, having been served soft and juicy with plenty of spice and character, but the freshly made Japanese Fried Rice (no doubt incorporated from their Frank’d concept) an absolute triumph. Truth be told, we could have had the plump, fragrant rice all by itself, given how well the heat of the wok, or wok ‘hei’, had infused it with smokiness. Hearty, deeply aromatic and absolutely delightful.

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Next on the list for our Manchester Tour 2022, 5/5 Ribeye, who thus far are justifying their 5/5 with nominations for two veggies, two starters, and two beverages, add this perfectly balanced Slow Cooked Spicy Lamb Shank into the mix. And while all the elements that make up this classic dish were accounted for, this particular one was elevated by innovative touches that included a butternut squash puree, which wasn’t just smoother in texture to its traditional potato mash counterpart, but its sweeter undertone also meant that it married harmoniously with the shank’s gently spiced and lightly flavoured cinnamon marinade.

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Once again included in the Birmingham Food Toour 2022, Tarragon Bistro in Hall Green, who have a beverage in the running, served us the rare treat of a Halal version of a beef bourguignon. Chef Sadek has successfully managed to substitute the traditional use of red wine in this classic French dish for a non-alcoholic alternative (the secret of which, of course, stays with him).

As such, a dish as rich and as decadent as this slow cooked Beef Bourguignon is a rare treat indeed. At the centre of it all was a pulled beef that was deeply infused with a sauce that thoroughly enveloped chunky bits of meat surrounded by chewy segments of subtly smoky rashers (probably turkey), sauteed shallots, a variety of baby carrots, and mushrooms. As for the mound of dauphinoise potato, then this was perfectly executed, with a grilled cheesy top, which brought everything together into a coherent whole.

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Tarragon Bistro again, this time making this category a battle of the Sunday roasts with their own ‘Special’ version. Here, the cooking of what was undoubtedly a quality piece of poultry was precision personified, with a ridicuously moist interior, and a skin that was superbly crisped to a tee. Add to that the roast potatoes, carrots, cabbage, as well as a pair of light and airy Yorkshire puddings – all exquisitely executed – and we just couldn’t get enough.

Nevertheless, while plenty of gravy was provided, perhaps a strong chicken-based one would have helped take this to unchartered territories. Having said that though, this was one of the best we’ve had in a while.